BLUE DIAMOND POOLS INC
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Frequently Asked Questions
So many of our customers and those interested in what we do have many questions. This page is dedicated to the education of anyone interested in pool renovations, concerns, and general information about what services we offer. Feel free to submit a question on your mind! Simply fill out the inquiry form on the home page or on the contact page! Perhaps it will be featured here!
All answers provided are taken from and reference both the National Plaster Council and Wet Edge Technologies Web Sites and are based on industry standards. To find out more please visit their Web Sites by clicking the links below.
“What kind of work does Blue Diamond Pools Inc perform?”
We are a family owned and operated Pool Plastering Company. We do NOT build swimming pools. We provide our customers and those of the many pool builders and general contractors we work with a very specific section or "stage" of your pool's construction. We also renovate existing in ground swimming pools that have a gunite shell or substrate.
We are responsible for the interior finish, which could include various options depending on each customer’s or contractor’s customized contract specifications. Some procedures used in the industry are:
Removal of existing tile, jackhammering or stripping the “old” plaster off, waterblasting, prepping the surface by applying a bond coat to accept the new material selected for the finish, installation of new tile, additions like sun shelves or water features, applying/troweling the material chosen for the finish whether it’s plaster or quartz rock, and beginning to fill your pool with water immediately upon application of the new material. We also specialize in repairing or replacing cool decking, coping, and mastic.
When it comes to New Pools, we are hired to apply the material you have chosen through your builder/contractor and begin to fill the pool with water immediately upon application of the new material. We enjoy many long-term relationships with many Swimming Pool Builders and General Contractor across Northern California and are proud to partner with them to provide their customers with a beautiful pool finish!
“I LOVE my new pool finish, how do I take care of it?”
At the completion of your pool's interior installation, you receive a packet with detailed instructions on how to care for your new pool surface. First step is to let the pool completely fill with water without interrupting the flow of water until it reaches the middle of the skimmer. Do not allow pets or humans in the freshly plastered pool as it is filling. Do not swim in the pool until day 4. Do not use the water heater, cleaners or vacuum heads with wheels or tracks for 14 days. The 1st 28 days after the pool is full of water is known as the “curing period”. During this time your pool finish is hydrating and is most susceptible to staining, scaling and discoloration which are all cosmetic issues and not the responsibility of Blue Diamond Pools Inc.
You may choose to hire a pool service or do the start-up yourself. Proper record keeping that includes the 28-day startup, weekly chemistry and maintenance logs is required in the rare event a warranty claim needs to be pursued. A full list of disclosures is provided as a part of our contract as well as provided in the 28 Day Start Up Guide and as well at both the National Plaster Council & Wet Edge Technologies websites. Whether your finish is Plaster or Quartz, the 28 Day Start Up applies and is the standard process for all.
For a complete free copy of the Wet Edge Technology 28 Day Start Up Guide click the link.
Watch this video for tips on a successful pool start up
Watch this Start Up & Maintenance of New Plastered Swimming Pool Video
Watch this video for tips on how to brush your new finish
What are the small cracks that I see in my pool finish?
Most cracks that appear in pool finishes can be classified in three different categories. Closed shrinkage cracks, open shrinkage cracks, and structural movement cracks. Closed shrinkage cracks, or "normal" shrinkage cracks occur from the normal volume loss that occurs when the finish sets and dries. This loss of water, or volume loss, creates stress in the finish as it sets. This stress is relieved by cracking. This is considered normal as the finish sets. The shrinkage cracks will normally seal themselves shut underwater, as the pool fills. The cracks are filled with new calcium compounds that are generated in the hydration process. Many times, these cracks are not visible until the pool is drained. Closed shrinkage cracks do not affect the performance of the finish and are considered a cosmetic issue. Open shrinkage-related cracks are also formed by the loss of water during the drying and setting of the finish. These cracks do not re-seal themselves. For that reason, these cracks will require remedial work. Structural movement cracks extend completely through the finish. These cracks are usually related to structural movement occurring under the pool finish. Structural movement cracks require remedial work to stop the movement that is causing the cracks.
My finish was fine when initially installed, but I've begun to notice small brownish or rust colored spots. What are these spots?
Based on your description these brown spots may be:
1.) Iron fertilizer used on the grass or other plants nearby the pool
2.) A new wrought iron fence, or other metal work being done nearby the pool
3.) B-B's, nails, screws, bobby pins, or other small metallic objects
Each of the above issues can be the cause of small rust spots. The in-floors, pool cleaner, and/or circulation returns frequently move these small objects, so even one small metal object, or iron-containing material, can cause numerous rust spots before it is removed from the pool.
Generally, small metal rust spots can be easily sanded off underwater using a piece of wet/dry sand paper, diamond disc, or other abrasive pad. A professional can often remove rust spots chemically, by pouring ascorbic acid or other such rust removal chemical (for swimming pools usage) directly onto the rust spot (follow manufacturer directions). If the spots are not removed after implementing one of these processes, then the issue may not be on the surface. There may be some impurity within the finish, or there may be a structural reinforcement issue, in which case your Builder or Plasterer should be contacted.
How important is it to brush the surface of a pool?
Brushing the surface of a new pool finish is vital to the proper outcome of a start-up procedure, and just as important in the ongoing weekly maintenance of a finish. When new, the finish is especially susceptible to staining that can occur from "plaster dust", dirt, and debris that is allowed to settle and stick to the new surface. The brushing action will help to maintain both the appearance and smooth texture of the new finish. Most start-up procedures require twice-a-day brushing during the start-up, and eventually tapering off towards the end of the start-up. Older, established finishes also need to be brushed on a regular basis. The surface of any finish will have some microscopic depressions. These are normal with any hand troweled product. These depressions allow for the accumulation of tiny particles of dirt and various types of debris. Eventually this accumulation becomes visible as a discoloration of the finish. At this point, the discoloration may require more than just brushing as a remedy. Exposed aggregate finishes need the same care when it comes to brushing. These finishes tend to hide dirt accumulation better than other types of finishes because of the textured surface. Once-a-week brushing of established finishes is a practice that will help extend the longevity of your finish while maintaining the aesthetics
When I turn the light on in my pool I see waviness and unevenness across the surface of the finish. Is this normal?
Swimming pool plastering is a hand-crafted finish. The finish is produced by ‘free hand’, meaning it is not molded or pre-formed. There will always be some waviness or unevenness associated with hand-crafted finishes. The National Plasterers Council Technical Manual (9th edition) states: “Observation , using the swimming pool light at night, or other sources of light that shine across the surface, instead of upon the surface, are not considered a fair representation of the surfaces true appearance. Certain angles of light will grossly exaggerate imperfections and/or the waviness across the surface finish.” Basically, some fluctuations and waviness are inherent to the application, and as such, are considered normal. However, if certain inconsistencies are readily apparent under normal daylight viewing conditions, then the builder or plastering company should be contacted for evaluation.
There are white spots/blotches in my pool's plaster, why did this happen and how can I remedy it?
One of the most common issues in pool plaster is etching deterioration, or 'spot etching.' This can result from aggressive water chemistry: low carbonate alkalinity and elevated cyanuric acid are the main contributors to spot etching. You can calculate how to keep your water chemistry in proper balance using the Langelier Saturation Index (LSI), as seen on the NPC Start-Up Procedures Card, which is included in your packet you receive from Blue Diamond Pools Inc at the completion of your plaster installation. Section 7.6.1.1 of the NPC 8th Edition Technical Manual explains in detail what an “aggressive chemical attack” is and what it means for your plaster's health.
Aggressive Chemical Attack definiton=
Cementitious surface coatings are susceptible to chemically aggressive swimming pool water or to any chemical that is capable of deteriorating the cementitious materials of a surface coating. Swimming pool water that is not in Ideal Range of acceptable tolerance (or “balanced”) as in accordance with the ANSI/APSP Standards is considered to be detrimental to cementitious surface coatings. Depending on the direction of the imbalance a coating can either be stained or etched. Often, both staining and etching are exhibited on the surface of a coating as the pool water fluctuates from one extreme to the other. Visible signs of salt crystallization, surface efflorescence, or cracks that are emitting efflorescence or salt deposits are common to a coating in contact with a positive saturation index (+ LSI), or “scaling” condition. If the water is capable of leaching cement compounds from within the surface coating, then that water is in a negative saturation index (LSI), or "aggressive" condition.
If care is not taken to ensure that the water of a swimming pool is kept in an Ideal Range that is considered by ANSI/APSP to be balanced, and further that a sufficient amount of carbonate alkalinity buffer is constantly present, then the cementitious surface coating should be considered susceptible to damage from that water and deterioration may result. Water-soluble salts, acids, or ions such as sulfates, chlorides, and carbonates, can be transported into a cementitious surface coating and react with the cementitious compounds. The resulting chemical reaction between the cementitious compounds and these salts, acids, or ions, in the presence of water, can cause deterioration to the coating. Acidic water aggressively attacks and dissolves cementitious surface materials. Water that is low in hardness, or soft water, can cause leaching of certain compounds of the cement, especially calcium hydroxide.
The National Plasterers Council's technical experts have covered this issue in great detail on YouTube. The NPC and Blue Diamond Pools Inc., encourage you to watch these videos and take the time to educate yourself in order to better maintain your pool's plaster.